BXE Rings/Cam Break-in

something you need to ask , technical help here.

Moderators: water01, vwnutant, desertstorm

Post Reply
brathnach
still on the production line
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2014 1:52 am
Passat model: b5.5 and b6

BXE Rings/Cam Break-in

Post by brathnach »

Hey guys,

I’m currently undertaking a rebuild of a 1.9 TDI (PD) BXE engine. It threw a conrod and punctured a hole in the block so I found a replacement block (short) that was in good condition (well within specs) and am working on getting it all back together. However I am giving the block a good once over (bearings, rings etc.) as I don’t know its history.

I have done extensive research so am pretty up to speed on most aspects. I do intend to give the cylinders a light hone (flex-hone #240) and also am installing a new Kolbenschmidt camshaft and lifters as there was some light wear on my own one. I’m installing standard Goetze piston rings.

Now here comes my query. I didn’t receive any installation documentation with my camshaft but the apparent best practice is to do a 30 minute break-in with varying the engine around 2500 rpm under no load. However, this is at total odds with regards the ring seating break-in procedure which requires some level of load to bed rings. I don’t want to get into the finer details of break-ins as I know this is a highly opinionated if not controversial topic.

However, I’m sure most will agree that the break-in for the camshaft and rings are at total odds with one another. So, I’m really not sure what to do… Do the half hour camshaft break-in and then focus on the rings or mix it up and go for a drive up a hill keeping the rpms in the break-in region for the camshaft??

Also, I’ve noticed on the TDI forums in the states that builders have used Joe Gibbs break-in oil for these processes with success. I could get some but it would be up on £60 for 4 quarts which would be one change only. Is it worth it? Or am I better going with a 5w-40 505.01 spec oil for the breaking in? I think the reason some have found good results with this oil is firstly it's not as 'slippery' as synthetic and secondly is high in zinc additive which helps prevent cam wear. The logic of using an oil for break-in that at any other time would be frowned upon is hard to get my head around I have to admit.

Either way if someone here has any insight into how I should break-in my rebuild with regards to my dilemma I would appreciate it. Also, if there is a recommended high zinc content break-in oil available here in the UK or is using standard 505.01 oil for break-ins the consensus?

I know thats a lot of questions but I’d really appreciate any help I could get on this.

Jim

This topic has 9 replies

You must be a registered member and logged in to view the replies in this topic.


Register Login
 
Post Reply