Snub nose mount

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desertstorm
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Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 9:11 pm
Passat model: B5.5 130 TDI AWX
Location: Cannock

Snub nose mount

Post by desertstorm » Mon Mar 12, 2012 11:15 pm

I replaced the snub nose mount in my car as I noticed the engine was lifting a lot when being driven at slow speed when at the MOT station.I then surmised that this may be affecting the gearchanges when accelerating hard it was getting easy to miss the changes.
Because the engine is longitudinal and front wheel drive the torque reaction acts to lift the front of the engine. Because the diesels produce so much torque this effect can be quite large.
The standard snub nose mount on the 100PD and 130PD cars is a polyeurathane foam affair that gets squidgy over the years and becomes soft.
The 2.5 TDI V6 engines and other larger engines use a rubber mount, Much more resiliant and a good upgrade. You can get stiffer mounts still but they aren't OE and are more like £30.

Standard part for my car is 8D0199339M which is £5.41 plus VAT cream coloured

The upgraded part 8D0199339E which is £9.20 plus VAT Black rubber

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I bought one of each just in case I couldn't get the black one to fit. Or the vibration with the black one was excessive.
To fit the part you basically need to get the front of the car into the service position, the same as you would to do the cambelt so I would suggest this would be a good time to change the snub nose mount at say 120K.

Remove the Torx bolts circled on both sides of the car.

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Undo the bonnet release lever by using a screwdriver to lift the metal clip at the same time as splaying the legs on the bonnet handle to get it off the pins. Tried to take a picture but it wasn't happening :).

You can now remove the grill by releasing the clip in the top centre and pulling it straight up.
Undo the Four torx bolts that you can now see. Undo the three phillips screws that hold the inlet snorkel to the front of the car.

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Now you need to remove the 4 torx screws and 2 plastic fixings in the wheel arch at the ends of the bumper on each side of the car.Putting the wheel on full lock one way then the other makes this a lot easier.

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At this point you may want to jack the car up to get some more clearance and room to work under the front of the car. Paying attention to the usual health and safety stuff. Ie axle stands and chocks.
Undo three screws underneath that secure the front of the undertray and a 10mm nut and you can now remove the front bumper after you have disconnected the fog light wiring if you have any of these.The bumper just pulls forward off the slides at each end of the bumper.
You now have to undo a bolt on each side of car that secures the front frame to the wing.

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Now the only thing stopping the front from moving forward are the 4 torx bolts on the drivers side and 3 on the passenger side that secure the front crossmember . If these are removed without supporting the weight of the radiators and bumper the whole lot will just drop, It only needs to be moved forward a few inches so to support it I use some lengths of 8mm threaded bar.Screw one in each side when the first bolt is removed each side. The torx bolts are T45 and some are pretty tight.

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When all the bolts are removed you should now be able to pull the front crossmember forward. To get the old snub nose mount out you need to remove the engine mounting that it fits into. There are 3 13mm bolts on this and these need undoing.After they are undone and you have moved the aluminium mount out of the way you can get the old snub mount off.Ignore the yellow squares, this picture pinched off Turbodiesel.com.

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Comparing the old and new mount, the old one was flattened top and bottom and was noticeably softer than the new one I bought, and a lot softer than the rubber upgrade item.

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Putting the old one in the mount you can see the free room before it does anything

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And the upgrade rubber item

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Push the new rubber mount on, It is tight but will fit, I put a little bit of washing liquid on the mounting.Refit the aluminium mount on the engine but leave the 3 bolts loose so the mount can move.
Now reassemble the front crossmeber replacing the 7 T45 torx bolts and the bolts on the ends of the crossmember.
There is movement in the holes to allow some movement of the bumper so the best thing to do is look for the marks on the frame and make sure the bolts are sitting where they were originally. The weight of the crossmember will tend to pull it to the lowest position.
When you have refitted and tightened the crossmember you can tighten the 3 13mm bolts on the snub mount. You want it in a position so there is a few mm of clearance at the top and bottom so as to avoid any transmission of vibration at idle.
Now put evrything else back on the car and don't forget to reconnect the bonnet catch, I did it once and it's a pain in the rear to get the bonnet open :) .

There is no more vibration at idle than before and the gearchanges have certainly improved so I suspect the engine isn't moving around as much and the torque is being used to move the car and not the engine.

Tools used

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1. Selection of Torx bits.
2. Half inch torque wrench with extension to get T45 bolts out on crossmember.
3. 13mm spanner for snub mount bolts.
4. 10mm spanner.
5. Flat blade screwdriver, levering off old mount, getting bonnet catch undone.#
6. Set of Torx Keys.
7. Small stubby flat blade screwdriver, great for undoing undertray fixings.
8. Phillips screwdriver, for inlet snorkel screws.
9. 8mm threaded bar with some 13mm nuts locked together so it can be screwed in easier.

Karl.
Gone but will never be forgotten
207Bhp 347Lb/ft 14.9 seconds 93mph
The build topic viewtopic.php?f=5&t=56110

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The new 382bhp Audi viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70765

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