Source: http://www.passatforum.com/forum/viewto ... 1ea5986242
You can also see the lights in action
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oJcU_g4oEQ
1. Parts
i. Upgraded inner rear lights (such as from Guyke). In terms of LEDs, YOU have to choose whether you wish to have RED + ORANGE (extra inner indicator) or RED + WHITE (2 x reverse lights) LEDs.
You must also decide if you wish to drill and fit the LED rings yourself (or pay extra for Guyke to pre-fit - recommended).
This is what you get back from Guyke
When I got my units back, I also applied extra layer of translucent silcone sealant (Wilko Bathroom special) to double seal the indicators to ensure no moisture gets inside the light units, as my dad said, always have protection…)
I got the Orange LEDs so I have 2 x indicators this means more work to wire into the outer indicators….if you go for the reverse light LEDs, this is not required so less work…
ii. 25W Resistor (for placing load on 2nd fog light so as not to trigger faulty bulb) has ground wire to go to ground on chassis and other end wire is wired into the yellow wire…to insert into Black B under the dash.
iii. VW Yellow wire (000 979 150 E) – you must get this small VW ‘spring pin’ otherwise it will not fit! Ensure you insert it into the correct socket. It will be tricky to go back!
iv. Tape/Solder/Small connector blocks for wiring up rear lights/Soldering iron/solder to make wire joins.
v. Assortment of cable ties to keep things neat
vi. Possibly some heatshrink…(when connecting wires together)
vii. Nice friend with VagCom Diagnostic System – to reprogram lights once all has been installed
2. Tools
Torx20 head (to remove trim)
Usual pliers and spanners to undo various nuts and screws as you go along - generica
3. Wiring in the Tailgate
i. Undo the 4 x Torx 20 screws (2 in warning triangle and 1 in each of recessed pulls in bottom lip of tailgate)
ii. Carefully ‘pull’ inner rear tailgate plastic cover using a tool that does not scratch the paintwork (take extra care at each top corner as plastic is brittle and flimsy)
iii. Undo and remove your inner rear lights. Send away or install the LED rings yourself.
4. Wiring in the Tailgate
i. For those that ordered just the inner light ring - you will need an extra clear lens to replace the fog light lens (or remove the red centre piece from your RHS light unit when the LED ring is being installed)
ii. If you ordered the LED rings pre-installed into the indicators (orange LEDs) and sidelights (red LEDs). There will be 3 wires. The black is the ground and the other two you need to identify which are the indicators and which are the side lights. As G-Black recommended, best way to check is try it in a 12v source like the cigarette lighter socket, to see which is which. In MY case, the (YELLOW = yellow indicators) (BLUE = red /side lights).
iii. The wire for the tail light and the ground wire will join up with your existing fog light wire circuit. To become the NEW sidelight circuit (after VCDS reprogram). Cut the 2 wires to the fog light about 2 inches from the bulb holder (RHS).
iv. Using a multimeter, confirm which wire is ground and which is positive (mark the +ve with a marker pen).
v. You need to wire the ex-fog light centre bulb/socket (RHS) to the existing reverse bulb (LHS) in SERIES. i.e. tap each wire from the ex-fog light connector to each wire of the existing reverse light. This will give you 2 reverse lights! If you have also ordered the inner indicators, then the same principle applies. You now have dual-reverse lights.
vi. Join the tail light wire (in my case blue) and the ground wire (in my case black) from both inner LED rings to the factory wiring here. The black wire will be the ground wire. This goes to the Ground of the fog light spur (that you just cut). The red LED wire will go to the positive of the fog light spur). This is to ensure the continuity of the CanBus system.
Wiring into Rear Outer Indicators
If your inner lights have the Orange LEDs, you need to tap the L/R outer indicators…
vii. The wire for each indicator you need to run the L/R wires up the tailgate trim and through the rubber boot and into the roof and then down again so that you can tap these wire into the respective existing indicator wire (as L/R cables run down the respective sides of the car, you need to run each length down each side.
viii. Usually LHS indicator wire is Black and RHS indicator wire is Black/Green). But confirm for yourself!
5. Wiring in beneath Steering Column
i. Remove the panel underneath the steering column , its only 3 screws.
ii. The pin location for the resistor is on page 1 of the 'Euro Lights' thread (photo by G-Black). Only trim you really need to remove is the piece above your feet. 3 bolts along the edge and then it just pulls out. Disconnect the diagnostics plug and it comes away. Then you need to get flexible! Lying on our back legs out the door and look up to the board. There is a red pin down the middle of all the connections. Slide it along to release them then pull out the correct connection and find the pin you are after.
iii. The resistor should have one end wired into pin 4 connector B and the other end should be ground to the chassis. Keep it away from other wires as it will get HOT. Then you code VCDS to use the new led rings to be used as BRAKE, DRIVING LIGHT and FOG LIGHTS, giving you two of each…
iv. The panel round the bonnet release is a little harder. The handle itself is clipped on. Push a flat head screw driver down the back of the handle and pull the clip out from behind it. Then the handle comes off.
v. In that panel is the connector for vcds , and then remove the panel where the opening for the hood is, behind that panel you have a nice connection for the minus off the resistor and i mounted the resistor on the metal off the car also behind that panel.
vi. Note: Instead of the dummy load from this resistor, you can always wire in a new cable from the front (exit second fog light) to the rear off the car and connect it to the other ring!
6. VCDS
i. First off all you'll need VCDS. You'll need to add in a second rear fog light, fog light as driving light and fog light as brake light.
ii. Once you've done that, you'll have an error light to say rear left brake light not working. This is because when you activate fog light as driving light, the central electrics automatically think that the car has two rear fog lights, so to cancel the error, you need to find pin 4 on connection B behind the relays in the driver’s side foot well.
Byte 10, 15% rear fog as parking light
Byte 21 bit 4, check, rear fog light as brake light.*
Byte 19 bit 3+6, unchecked, cancel cold diagnostics for fog light and reverse light.
OR
Byte 9 Rear Brake Light as Park Light 15 change to 0
Byte 10, 15% rear fog as parking light
Byte 18 bit 3+6, unchecked, cancel cold diagnostics for fog light and reverse light.
Enjoy!
You will have this by day...
..and this by night...
In my humble opinion, this is the coolest mod to the B6. Everytime I lock the car/reverse, I am chuffed to bits with these lights.
Many thanks to Guyke, Martin 1810 and G-Black – without all of whom, this would not have been possible as I encountered snags along the way.