Fitting Coilovers To a B3 (many pics)

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BIG F@ TW@
Too much time on your hands
Posts: 2754
Joined: Wed Apr 11, 2007 8:59 pm
Passat model: B5.5 Highline
Location: Harrogate

Fitting Coilovers To a B3 (many pics)

Post by BIG F@ TW@ »

I have recently replaced my current supsension set up for a new set of Hot Tuning Coilovers and remembered my camera so I can do a detailed step by step of how to remove and replace etc.

The biggest pain in the bum when doing this is removing the boot panels, as these are needed to be removed to gain access to the top mountings for the rears struts. But as long as you take your time, then you should have no problem.

To complete this job you will need the following tools (if my memory serves me correctly):

Trolley Jack
Axle stands
19mm socket
19mm spanner
15mm socket + extension
13mm socket
16mm socket
Philips screwdriver
Extendable magnet rod thing.

The Kit
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REAR

First job is to remove the load cover and rails, 5 screws in total (2 behind the little plastic cover) also in this pic there is a screw on the edge of the boot hatch, remove this too.
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Remove the cubbyhole door and you should see 2 more screws, remove these.
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There are a couple of screws along the bottom edge too, remove these.
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Open the rear passenger door and remove the bolster that runs down between the seat and the door edge (pop out at the bottom and then lift and pull) and remove the screw thats showing.
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Whilst there you can access the other screw that is holding the top piece of panel on, you will need to pull the back of the seat forwards for this.
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The black piece of trim where the seatbelt slides through can be lifted up and slid along the belt, then you can lift away the top of the interior trim to expose the seatbelt mech below.
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There are a couple more screws holding the large piece of trim to the body.
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You should now be able to remove the large piece of trim panel which houses the speaker and the cubby hole opening. Remember to unplug the speaker cables first and take care when lifting out as it is a very odd shape and is top heavy so lie it flat.


Hopefully it should now look something like this.
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Next remove the two screws holding the black bracket, the one in the grooved slot only needs to be loosened.
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There is a bolt holding the seatbelt mech to the body (I think it’s a 16mm) my memory has gone blank on me here. It’s located just under the mech.
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Now you need to get the rear wheel off and get the car on some axle stands.
Undo the two top bolts holding the top of the struts, it’s the two gold colour bolts. When removed the rear strut should drop a little. You will need to flex the plastic trim when doing these, don’t worry it will move enough.
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Now get yourself down onto the floor and looking at the bottom of the rear strut from behind, you should see where the strut mounts to the rear subframe. You will need your 19mm spanner and socket or use two spanners sup to you. Once the bolt is off be very careful it doesn’t role down inside the subframe (this can be sole destroying as you go fishing with your magnet rod and take feckin ages too!) You might need to take the weight of the strut so you can remove the threaded bolt and pull it out. You can now remove the rear strut completely.
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Here’s what you should now be looking at, old unit and new unit.
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You will need to remove the top mount off the old unit as you need this. Use a flathead screwdriver ti pop the black plastic cover off the top (pic shows new unit as I forgot to take pic of old unit) but it’s the same process.
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Take the circled rubber piece off the old strut AND the metal tube that sits inside as you need to transplant this onto the new coilover unit. The new coilover may have a small nut holding the aluminium spring top secure, remove this nut and slide on the rubber piece and the metal tube. Drop the top mount onto this and bolt down which is a direct reversal of removal, you may need to compress the spring a bit here or you can adjust the coils enough so the thread on the bar is showing at the top.
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Once it’s all secured down you can start the process of refitting. It’s worth taking a measurement of the distance from adjuster collar to bottom of thread and match this up with the other side when you do that side.
It’s worth noting that when refitting, you should fit the two top bolts first as this will hold the coil in place whilst you bolt the bottom in place.

FRONT

Removal and fitting front coils is a lot more straightforward, to start you need to remove front wheel and get the car securely raised on axle stands. Place a trolley jack under front axle stub and jack up until it just about takes the weight. Pop bonnet and remove the strut top bolt.
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Then remove the two lower bolts holding the bottom of the strut
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Now when you release the weight on the trolley jack the strut will release, don’t let it drop or bash your little finger!!
Refit new coilovers as a reversal of the removal, and take a measurement of the set up first then check other side matches.
I think that has covered most things, as I said before, the biggest ball ache is the removal of the interior trim.
The whole job is do-able by yourself, but it does help to have an extra set of hands. I reckon it should take you approx 4 hours to complete if all goes well (this does include tea breaks and biscuit breaks) coffee and a puffin recommended :D
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BIG THANKS TO SCOTT FOR HELPING ME WITH THIS 'HOW TO'
Last edited by BIG F@ TW@ on Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
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