Cruise Control Install

This Section is purely for HOW TO step by step guides , if you want to submit a thread please email admin or post it up and we will moderate it accordingly....these can be discussed in the other relevant forums . ALL THREADS WILL BE LOCKED

Moderators: water01, vwnutant, desertstorm

Locked
User avatar
64 SPLIT
Too much time on your hands
Posts: 2179
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:52 pm
Passat model: B6 TDI Sport Est
Location: Leeds

Cruise Control Install

Post by 64 SPLIT »

Cruise Control Install
This is install is for a TDI Passat (suitable for B5 & B5.5) but also applies to petrol version too.

Please note that in order to retro-fit cruise control your car needs to have fly=by-wire / electronic throttle control NOT mechanical. A quick and easy way to check is to sit in the car with the engine running. Rev the engine to approx. 2k rpm and simultaneously apply the brake with your left foot. It the revs drop then you have electronic throttle control. If the revs don't drop then you have mechanical control and this install is not possible.

You'll need a registered version of VAGCOM to enable the cruise control before or after the install.
It's only a 2 minute job and easy to do. If you haven't got a copy yourself then check out the VAGCOM locator map or the 'whereabouts' map and see if anyone local to you has it.

Tools:
M12 Star bit - check pic below!
Torque Wrench
Crosshead screwdriver
Long-bladed flat screwdriver
T25 & T20 Torx bits
8mm socket and extension bars
10mm spanner
10mm socket and extension
4mm allen key
Jewellers 1mm screw driver (or VERY thin strips of strong metal for multi-plug release)
Zip-ties

Here are the parts along with part numbers...
Cruise Stalk & Harness
Image

Cruise Stalk for TDI models:
1JO 953 513

Harness
3BO 971 425A

You may be able to order these from VW cheaper than they're available for on eBay etc.

1. First up, flick the ignition on and set your wipers to the vertical position (just flick the ignition off as they reach the top). Then pop the bonnet and disconnect the battery.


2. Back inside the car, release the steering column lever and pull the whole column as far out and downwards as possible, then lock back in place.

Now turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to the left or right - behind the steering wheel you should be able to feel a small hole - pop a long screwdriver in here and lever upwards to release the airbag retaining clip. It's fiddly and awkward to do!

Turn the wheel 180 degrees the other way and repeat the above in order to fully release the airbag from the steering wheel. Make sure you support the airbag so it doesn't drop to the floor as there is a delicate yellow cable connected to the reverse (as below). Disconnect this plug.

Image


3. Unplug the other yellow airbag plug and apply the steering lock. Using a 10mm torx bit undo the bolt in the centre of the steering wheel. This bolt can be re-used a maximum of 5 times, so make some kind of mark on it to keep a record, or if you have a nut here instead of a bolt then it has to be replaced as it's single use only.

Image


4. Now remove the two crosshead screws on the underside of the lower column shroud that secure it to the upper one.

Image


5. Then remove the two crosshead screws on the front of the lower shroud (arrowed) and the 4mm allen headed screw from the underside of the lower shroud (arrow)

Image
Image


6. Now unplug all the sockets from the back of the wiper and indicator stalks.

Image


7. Underneath the coumn is the multi-plug for the steering angle sensor. Apply some tape to the steering angle sensor to hold it's position still. DO NOT ROTATE THIS otherwise it will need to be reset by VW. Unplug the sensors yellow connector (circled). You can now release the sensor from it's retaining lugs that secure it to the stalk assembly.

Image


8. With the sensor removed you can now undo the 4mm allen bolt (arrow) on the clamp for the stalks.

Image


9. Slide the stalk assembly off the column and separate the two stalks with a flat bladed screwdriver as shown.

Image


10. With the stalks removed, now pop the fuse box cover off the side of the dash with a flat-bladed screwdriver (there's a small slot for this on the lower edge). Remove the lower two T25 torx screws (arrowed)

Image


11. Push the headlight switch inwards and to the right to release it from the dash. Pull it forward and unclip the large multiplug from the reverse.


12. Undo the T25 torx screw from the underside (one each side) of the under-dash panel where indicated with the arrows. Unclip the headlight adjustment multiplug from the back of the under-dash panel and you should have something like the third picture. This will give access to the relay panels and pedal assemblies.

Image
Image
Image


13. Wedge a screwdriver or other suitable item under the sprung column shroud and remove the four T20 torx screws indicated. Remove the last piece of the column shroud.

Image
Image


14. Working under the dash, remove the two 10mm nuts at either side of the relay panel and pull both relay panels down as far as they'll go into the drivers footwell.
You may need to remove the far-right relay on the lower relay board to give enough access to the second nut and to give enough clearance around the bonnet pull lever to remove the panel.

Image
Image


15. You should now be confronted with a second relay board - which is secured on the bulkhead by one 10mm nut (arrowed) - it's difficult to spot behind all the wires! There's not a great deal of room to play with so use a long extension on the socket if possible - and pop a small bit of blu-tac inside the socket so that you don't lose the nut when it comes off!
You also need to remove the crosshead screw which fixes the second relay board to the right-hand side of the footwell - again difficult to spot so use the pics to find it (arrowed).
Pull the board down as far as possible into the footwell. Don't strain the wires though.

Image
Image


16. Now under the bonnet, remove the five 8mm screws around the ECU cover. To access the rearmost one, you'll need to pop the small plastic gromit out of the scuttle panel from underneath. This should give just enough room to get an 8mm socket and extension through to the back one. You may need to remove the small metal scuttle panel clip just by the bonnet hinge to give the scuttle panel enough flex to clear the ECU lid.

Image
Image


17. With the lid removed, pry the ECU clamp off with a flat-bladed screwdriver - levering in the direction of the arrow.

Image


18. Slide the ECU plug clamps out at each side of the two big plugs - this should release the ECU from it's box. Put it to one side - somewhere safe and dry! Now unplug all of the multiplugs (red/white/brown/black/orange & two-tone red) from the plug board where the wiring harness goes through the bulkhead. At either side of this plug board there are two crosshead screws which need to be removed - unfortunately it was too cramped to get a decent pic.

Image


19. Back inside the car, unravel part of the wiring harness tape that goes to the multiplugs on this plug board and then manoeuver the plug board down into the drivers footwell as much as you can.
Disconnect the white plug and the orange plug.

Image


20. Release the orange connector and pull out the purple catch to 'unlock' the connector.
Using the jewellers screwdriver (or VW's special tool VAS 1978/4!!) release the contact for the red&white cable at pin 8 and replace it with the red&white pin from the Cruise Control harness. Connect the red&white cable you just removed from the orange connector to the red&white cables socket on the C/C harness. Relock the catch on the orange multiplug and reset it into the plug board.

Image

Petrol engine versions are identical apart from the orange multi-plug connector you remove the beigey/brown colour and instead of a red & yellow wire it's a black & red one that is connected to the red/white cables of the C/C harness.


21. Release the white connector from the plug board and release the locking lug on it's sides and slide it apart. With the multi-wired section there is a small catch at the top corner on each side. Release these to gain access to the contact pin housings. Turn the socket upside down to look at the pins with the notch at top left.
Pin 1 is top right going down to pin 8 bottom right,
Pin 9 is top left going down to pin 15 bottom left.

Image

WHITE CONNECTOR:
___________
9 I o o I 1
NOTCH o I 2
10 I o o I 3
11 I o o I 4
12 I o o I 5
13 I o o I 6
14 I o o I 7
15 I o o I 8
I__________I


22. With the remaining contact pins of the cruise control harness:
Connect contact of the red/grey cable into pin slot 7
Connect contact of the red/yellow cable to pin slot 9 (top left next to the notch)
Connect contact of the blue cable to pin slot 8 (bottom right)
Connect contact of the black/white cable to pin 10 (otherside of the notch)
(excuse my crappy diagram!)
___________
9 I R/Y o I 1
o I 2
10 I B/W o I 3
11 I o o I 4
12 I o o I 5
13 I o o I 6
14 I o R/G I 7
15 I o B I 8
I__________I


23. Reconnect the white plug and set it back into the plug board. Completion is now a reversal of the above. Torque the steering wheel bolt up to 60Nm and ensure a gap of at least 3mm between the steering wheel and the reset ring of the angle sensor.


24. Once all back together, connect up VAGCOM and do a full diagnostic scan. After this, go to 'Select Module' from the main screen and select [01] Engine Electronics.
If "GOOOSG" is displayed then the cruise control system is activated.
If "OOOOSG" is displayed then select the following
[11] Login Procedure"

and enter the code 11463
then 'Do It!'

Exit to the main screen again and go back in to check it has activated.

After the C/C has been coded, take it out for a test drive to check the operation of the various functions. It won't activate below speeds of approx. 30mph.
Last edited by 64 SPLIT on Sun May 17, 2009 1:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

This topic has 4 replies

You must be a registered member and logged in to view the replies in this topic.


Register Login
 
Locked