UKPassats

Has anyone mentioned that on cars newer than approx 2003 disabling the EGR will put the engine management light (EML) on?

Worth considering if you are doing anything other than the bolt in the vac line.

This EML can be "mapped" out though.

Try....

https://www.vwspares.co.uk/

or

http://www.murraysdirect.co.uk/

I've used butyl mastic out of a tube and mastic gun rather than preformed strip.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense- ... _container

Same stuff just gooeyer so less chance of a leak.

You will need to take the outer CV joint off anyway, so for £12 change it for a new one! Easier still a full driveshaft for £35.

I've used the J&R stuff for years and have never had an issue. Gaz, the same, as above, and quite a few others on here have happily used them.

Have a look at or speak to J&R driveshafts. (just put your reg into their website) https://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/ Cheap, very good and used by many of us on here without issue. Currently £12.99 for a new CV joint + boot + clips + grease for a B5.5 1.9 TDI Or £35 for a full, complete new drives...

It comes out from the top via a corkscrew / rotation type motion.

I've had to deal with two locks where I've not been able to undo the door.

Don't mess about.

Cold chisel or "big screwdriver" and hammer and smash the lock into as many bits as possible.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO accidentally chisel onto the outer door skin.

Always a difficult call when it comes to playing cambelt roulette. In my experience on the PD engine, the belt is so massively engineered that is has always been absolutely fine. It is the other stuff that starts to let go first, namely the tensioner and idler pulley bearings and the water pump. Whe...

I've seen this a few times as well. I'm not entirely sure that it isn't normal. Any wobble will surely get "sucked off" when the vacuum starts sucking.... :- I'll have a look at mine tomorrow. The old boy is thinking like this and said it won't affect anything ! Engine running if you dist...

I've seen this a few times as well.

I'm not entirely sure that it isn't normal.

Any wobble will surely get "sucked off" when the vacuum starts sucking....

I'll have a look at mine tomorrow.

That is the fuel cooler as fitted to early 130hp PD TDI's.

You could completely bypass it if needs be. Your not going to drive it in Africa or anywhere really hot?

As the car has the legendary AFN engine, it is worth keeping as long as possible. The AFN is not as powerful PD but is miles better on fuel! To properly sort the A/C system and as it hasn't worked for a while then I would replace the following, all with new 'o' rings which need to be wetted with PAG...

As a quick fix, just cut the A/C belt off, that is all it does.

A few things that might help... There is a resistor plate on the underside front of the passenger engine bay chassis leg - check for voltage into this plate AND reduced voltage out when the A/C is on. I'd had to replace one of these resistor plates as it suffered from water ingress. As for the relay...

Gazwould wrote: ↑Wed Sep 18, 2019 6:40 pm Just to think 6 years ago it was around 2.00 and the 3 years before that .



However......!!!

Go on.........

Always nice when that happens.

It is a V6 so not sure... but the oil pressure sender is likely to be on the oil filter / cooler housing. As for the window, yes quite a common issue. Two options; 1, Buy a metal inner (the card) with the window regulator pre fitted. 2, Buy a new regulator mechanism and fit it to the existing card, ...

No, the cooling system stays as-is same for the intercooler hose, they are designed to have enough flex in them.

What I struggled with was fitting the uprated V6 tdi rubber mount with the car in the lock position. It is a very tight fit.

I was in a similar dilemma but couldn't find any information. You can only get better at changing them and it is character building. I've only had one cheapo fail out of the two I've changed on my car (drivers front & pass rear) but the biggest issue I've had is them not showing their locked st...

I was in a similar dilemma but couldn't find any information. You can only get better at changing them and it is character building. I've only had one cheapo fail out of the two I've changed on my car (drivers front & pass rear) but the biggest issue I've had is them not showing their locked sta...

Gazwould wrote: ↑Sun Aug 25, 2019 1:19 pm Brembo discs and Ferodo Eco-Fiction .

Gaz,

Any more info on these, you used to recommend EBC stuff?

I used to buy top end Michelin tyres until I went through spate of unrepairable punctures.

Since then I've gone mid range. I'm currently using Falken tyres and have done for about eight years now with no issues at all.

I did the B5.5 - C5 A6 and back to a B5.5 almost ten years ago. Learned my lesson and have since always been very vocal about not letting go of a good B5 / 5.5.

fluke wrote: ↑Wed Aug 21, 2019 4:15 pm Colin where did you get one in the end?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Passat-Ae ... 2749.l2649

Rubber spring perches / seats are always good to replace.

The existing ones will be worn!