UKPassats

When I gave the part number above to the parts department, they asked for the rest of the number, sure enough in the how to is that number plus E41 on the end, it's the colour of the plastic, but he did then admit it seems there is only 1 option!

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You'll need the colour code as well, think it's e41 or something on the end or the p/n.

It's in the how to section either way

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Yep, the us market never got the black plastic ones so all the marker light ones will be colour coded.

A couple of people have retro fitted them to the black plastic ones though

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98' 1.8 20v will be ADR engine code. The coil packs on the 1.8t engines are common failures, there is a dealer recall for them. However the ADR Non turbo runs 2 coil packs on 2 cylinders with 2 leads connecting them to the other 2. Rather than individual coil packs on each cylinder. The CTS is anoth...

You will need the grill, the lights, bulbs, the loom, a fuse and a headlight switch with front fog position on it.

Simple case of running and connecting the loom in, changing over the switch and fitting the lights and grills

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I like mine fitted as a warning, when it touches I know I'm close to smacking the sump.

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The second one, the inner rod is turned to adjust it

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You'd be unfortunate to see any change from the top arms Tbh but the last thing you want is to have to do it twice!

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It's in the how to area, Kevy D being the author of the how to

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Ideally any change to suspension components should be followed by alignment, you can never guarantee the new part is 100% identical to the old so it may change things.

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Never heard of anyone who has the gear.

Dealer only is what I have always been told.

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I did wonder what was with the odd wheel at DC, that explains it all.

I too said it was nice to see it white again when I spotted it there

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The non contact areas of the disc will not get hot enough to require VHT paint.

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Parking sensors would have been black as they go in the lower valence on the estate rather than the coloured part of the bumper.

There is a different valence with a lip on just for them.

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Mine where identical, however I'm unsure of they were the originals.

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I did mine slightly different, I removed the bolt and dropped a vernier caliper down to the top of the tre, then made sure the new tre was in the same place :) Both will work the same, however as you say neither are ideal, but it's a close as you can get without a dealer trip :) Sent from my GT-I950...

Tbh the strainer is the cause of the issues you get FROM the sludge (low oil pressure etc.) rather than the cause of the sludge itself if that makes sense

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Mine is slowly clearing out now, but the crud that would be left behind made me cringe!

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You can't beat a Pela or Sealey extractor. Multi vehicle use, no jacking or axle stands , no mess, no fun with the under tray. And on tdi's sucks out an extra 150ml from the oil cooler that would remain if conventionally dropped. Wouldn't use one on a 1.8t, the sludge won't go up the pipe! :lol: Se...

Nope, you need the carriers, it's just the caliper you don't need.

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They are cheap for a reason [quote=airride.pl] Sets air-RIDE have not been certified and approved at the public roads.[/quote]

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You can get it out without moving the arms, easily.

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Sorry, 'Tcut' & 'Pledge'? A wind up surely!? If it's not, avoid paint shops, the shine agent in Pledge polish is a silicone release agent (how do I know? Because I make it ;) ) and T - cut, wow, it's old hat and very poor by modern standards. A decent compound and wax would save soooo much effor...

Gutted! As above you don't need to touch them. Ask next time.

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That's oil level warning. Tbh it could be the flush causing you issues, it's hateful stuff. Designed to thin oil, and that's exactly what it does, and keeps on doing through the traces of it left in the sump and oil gallery's! If it's had 3 cans through it recently it will not be helping the oil. If...