UKPassats

Anyone??

Gazwould?? I remember you helped greatly in the past

Also, is it possible to remove the full unit as one? I.E reservoir, MC, servo? Or is that really asking too much???

Can anyone help with a best practice that makes it as simple as possible for the titled task please?

It is obvious the unit is fairly snugged up in there and looks to me like engine needs at least half of it stripping out?? Is there a sticky on this method i've not spotted?

Car is a 07 Passat 2 ...

I know I've not been on here in a long time but gee this site ain't what it used to be

Are the vacuum pipes solid plastic? Where is the vacuum pump located? There is a lot in the way to get to the master eg

My car is a B6 2.0Tdi SPORT WAGON WITH BKP ENGINE 140Bhp

My brake pedal started to become spongy not a long time ago and so using a hydro-scope i checked the fluid for moisture. It read 2.5 :-o so thought, yes this needs changing :roll: so took all 4 wheels off, undid all the bleed nipples, ok i suppose i don't need to tell you good people how to change ...

This problem i am aware is usually down to either the clutch master or slave cylinders leaking.

However i have come on here as i am wondering if anyone has had similar problem to mine, whereby there is no evidence of leakage and brake fluid is full/to max level!

It started happening soon after ...

Is this a simple clip out old damaged one and replace new?
If so, what's best tool for job and where to poke it to release clips so as not to damage paint etc in wing mirror??
Or does the mirror etc need to be extracted?

Job done using nothing but my own eyes!!

I think the key is to be sure you find tdc on cylinder one and use the plastic triangular piece that comes with the seal to ensure it stays in position when you push it home to the crank. Then I used a lightweight copper mallet to tap it flush.

All went ...

In answer to your suggestion that the oil pump could be to blame I dont think it was that as there was plenty pressure there when bleeding the turbo in plus the old pipe was corroded quite badly to the point there was not much flow from turbo end where it had to be cut away from, refurbished turbo ...

New one sourced from main dealer for £57 and now fitted
Car back on the road and going well
Though I really should have replaced the clutch thrust bearing when changing out the clutch :hyst as it's making a bit of a racket but only when cold and as u push clutch pedal and release first 2 or 3 gear ...

I have had my turbo off and refurbished and the refurbisher has said that the problem occurred/caused by the oil feed pipe, not getting enough oil or something

Anyone else have any knowledge of this? I have a replacement pipe (2nd hand) and about to fit

Thanks in advance

I was wondering is it possible to change this without the need for using a special tool VW t10134???

If not anyone local to Blackpool with one?

I'm currently in fiddly squat territory where I have everything removed and now stuck

Any help would be so very grateful

I understand a special tool is required to replace these and loctite thread locker (blue) however I don't know the torque settings please if someone could please post this fig as wouldn't want it coming loose on me down the road as this could be silly

What are the most common areas for oil leaks to occur?

Seems I have a rather bad one pmsl!

I'm hoping to find it's not from the turbo as it's been whining for a while lol tho have been told that's nothing to worry about as just a boost leak and they all do it.

So as I dive deep into the engine ...

Ah no worries I will check it soon as I get chance

Thanks mate. At least it'll come apart again easily lol as used new bolts and a shed load of copper grease

Thank you for the reply

I get what you mean now. I have purchased a new set of inner wishbone bolts with said concentric washers for the adjustment as it was when I went to have my wheels alignment checked was when we found out the shockers were weeping (pissing out) and the springs were snapped ...

Which ones snapped mate the upper bolts that hold the shocker in place or the lower adjustable for toe in/out for rear wheel alignment?

Yes mate they only fitted one way mate as in the mount being triangular in shape and the bolt holes lining up

I have just become aware that i am requiring two new rear shocks as they are leaking badly.

I understand they are adjustable, as in for rear wheel alignment purposes.

Is it advisable to also purchase new bolts etc for whatever is needed?

If so, can someone provide me with links to somewhere i ...

All done and boy was that a tough job firstly the strut pinch bolt was a bar steward!! It required the nut be cut off one side and a shed load of weld applied to the torx end just to get enough heat into it for it to start to turn then gently gently and very slowly back and forth in very small turns ...

Unfortunately I have 2 brand new top mounts however they were only £35 for both so not too much damage done

Hi possible stupid question but do i need a spring compressor to change out this mount?

All sorted now thanks. Turned out to be true it did require crank sensor, the injector error tho has gone away since new battery fitted, weirdly
BKP 2007 B6 2.0TDI SPORT WAGON

Have just started to get this code this morning after trying to start car for first time in 2 days!
Bit of history first hopefully some guru on here will know what to do
Ok so for a few weeks I've suffering with intermittent misfiring at low revs (1.7k to 2.5/2.7k) in 2nd 3rd gears, usually when ...